De Bonne Facture | Consideration in Design and Production

De Bonne Facture | Consideration in Design and Production

De Bonne Facture Traveller Jacket in Navy Fine Wool Seersucker, Bermuda Shorts in Navy Fine Wool Seersucker, Oversize T-Shirt in Sand/Blue Linen

Traveller Jacket, Bermuda Shorts and Oversize T-Shirt.

"De Bonne Facture: A French phrase to describe a work of quality, be it a piece of art, literature or an object."

With the aim of creating a collection that prioritises ethical production and superior craftsmanship, Déborah Neuberg founded De Bonne Facture in 2013. After working in the fashion industry for years and experiencing the production process first hand, Neuberg was moved to create a business that prioritised transparency and collaboration at its core. Working with skilled artisans and makers across Europe, De Bonne Facture centres the individuals who are involved in the manufacturing process - from knitwear to leatherwork. Each item bears the name of the manufacturer/atelier as acknowledgement of their distinct skillset and, through this, the history and culture that birthed it.

Neuberg's collection focuses on classic menswear items, traditional in their design and contemporary in their fabrication. Each piece is based on the traditional menswear wardrobe, created in natural materials that highlight the beauty of tactility and the thoughtfulness of a sustainable production process. In terms of style and quality, Neuberg aims to emphasise the importance of durability - garments that will stand the test of time through wear and across changing seasons and trends. For Neuberg, being a woman who designs men's clothing reflects her and her style. She hopes that through her wearing these designs other women will be encouraged to escape the restrictions of the gender binary dress code society has normalised. That women will feel empowered to appropriate the traditional menswear wardrobe and explore it - to dress for how they feel, rather than for what is expected.

 

Honeycomb Knit Polo, Bermuda Shorts

Honeycomb Knit Polo and Bermuda Shorts.

De Bonne Facture is founded on the values of simplicity, quality, close relationships with makers, and a quiet French elegance. What is clear is that Neuberg wants her customers to buy with a conscience - items that are considered in every sense, from their design, craftsmanship, and provenance. Having achieved B Corp certification, the tenth apparel company in France to achieve such recognition, Neuberg's insistence on creating a collection that meets high standards of transparency and accountability demonstrates that the fashion industry can move away from an opaque process. De Bonne Facture's success highlights the interest and enthusiasm customers have in engaging with a more ethical way of producing clothes. Similar to the design and production process, De Bonne Facture's B Corp status gives customers the ability to trace the ways in which their purchases are produced.

Essential Jacket, Fleurs du Chennai Shirt and Two Pleat Trousers

Essential Jacket, Fleurs du Chennai Shirt and Two Pleat Trousers.

With sustainability and consideration at the forefront of Neuberg's vision for De Bonne Facture, the company has been built on five pillars of sustainability. 1. Garment Durability - "Designing quality clothes to be kept for a long time." 2. Atelier's Traceability - "Being transparent about our manufacturers. Each garment is labelled with the name and location of the atelier that made it." 3. Fabric Provenance - "Origin of fabrics available on each product page." 4. Ecological Impact - "Using natural fibres, organic or recycled is viable. Thinking about dyeing techniques and non-dyed fabrics. Avoiding petrochemical fibres." 5. Preservation of Know-How - "Investing in culture of craftsmanship by preserving regional skills. Working with family owned makers."

De Bonne Facture's Spring Summer 2023 collection is full of interesting textures, prints, and cuts that give a summer wardrobe an effortless yet considered look. The Traveller Jacket and Bermuda Shorts are crafted from a fine wool seersucker. Originating from India, seersucker is known for its waffled texture that draws the fabric away from the skin allowing for air to circulate beneath the fabric making it perfect for warmer weather. The name, seersucker, comes from the Persian "shîr" and "shakar," meaning milk and sugar, respectively, which captures how seersucker is both smooth and textured at once. It's crafted from the contrasting taut weft yarn and looser warp yarn, which gives seersucker its recognisable texture. Traditionally made from cotton, De Bonne Facture's Spring Summer 2023 offering is a fine wool seersucker, which is a rare fabrication. Neuberg has collaborated with a century-old Italian weaver based in Biella, Northern Italy, that prioritises natural materials and social and environment responsibility to produce the fine wool seersucker.

Fleurs du Chennai Shirt, Bermuda Short and Madras Bucket Hat

Fleurs du Chennai Shirt, Bermuda Shorts and Madras Bucket Hat.

The Short Sleeve Camp Collar Shirt is inspired by artists living in Paris in the 1940s and is available in three options, each featuring mother of pearl buttons and a chest patch pocket. A simple and classic off-white linen that will pair with anything; a washed linen Madras check in blue that has a slightly faded look; and a Fleurs du Chennai printed cotton. The Fleurs du Chennai pattern is based on a traditional woodblock printing technique and this specific pattern was created in collaboration with a family workshop in India who continue the woodblock printing tradition. 

Fleurs du Chennai Shirt, Bermuda Shorts and Madras Bucket Hat

Fleurs du Chennai Shirt, Bermuda Shorts and Madras Bucket Hat.

Crafted from medium-weight washed Belgian linen, the Essential Jacket and Two Pleat Trousers have an unstructured and unlined design that create a soft and relaxed look. The Essential Jacket has front patch pockets and a chest pocket, and the Two Pleat Trousers, inspired by artists' workwear, have a slightly high waist. Each feature horn buttons that contrast with the Oatmeal colour of the linen. 

Neuberg's subtle design choices reflect her desire to create a collection that seamlessly blends classic shapes with a contemporary feel to inspire a quiet French elegance that will last throughout the seasons for years to come.

Copy by Beth James.

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