Exploring Edinburgh with Jenny Walton

Originally built between 1899 and 1902, The Scotsman Steps must be one of the most practical pieces of public art in existence. Effectively linking the Old and New Towns of Edinburgh, the steps form an iconic part of the capital’s cityscape, and after falling into disrepair, were reimagined as an installation by Turner-Prize winning artist Martin Creed for the nearby Fruitmarket Gallery. Working in collaboration with Howarth Tompkins architects, Creed clad each of the steps in a different marble from across the world to create ‘a modest masterpiece’. Whether you opt for The Scotsman Steps or Work No. 1059 as Creed would have it, remember there are 104 in total, so you’ll be put through your paces…

Founded in 1998, Ingleby Gallery maintains an ambitious program of exhibitions and off-site projects by established and emerging artists. Nestled inconspicuously on Barony Street, their home, the light filled Glasite Meeting House, provides the ideal context for sharing contemporary art. This summer Ingelby is hosting Fragments, one of eight exhibitions opening concurrently to celebrate the centenary of the pioneering Scottish poet, artist and avant gardener, Ian Hamilton Finlay, whose Little Sparta, located just a short drive from Edinburgh, is equally worth a visit.

Photo 1: Ian Hamilton Finlay, Three Pedestals: Robespierre, Saint-Just, Couthon, 1987, with Iain Stewart, Portland stone in three (3) parts, 101 x 45.8 x 45.8 cm (each), 39 3/4 x 18 x 18 in

Photo 2: Ian Hamilton Finlay, L'etoile dans l'etable, 1976, neon mounted on metal, 76.5 x 64 x 5 cm, 30 1/8 x 25 1/4 x 2 in

Photo 3: Ian Hamilton Finlay, Five Finials, 1999, with Peter Coates, Magnesian limestone and bronze in 5 parts, dimensions variable

Arthur's Seat

Towering 251m above sea level, the ancient volcano that is Arthur’s Seat marks the highest point in Holyrood Park, just a short (but admittedly steep) walk from the Royal Mile in the heart of the city. Not only does the summit offer spectacular views of Edinburgh’s skyline and far beyond, but it is also the site of a large Iron Age hill fort and a 15th century medieval chapel, not to mention a diverse range of flora and geology. Look out those sensible shoes, pack plenty of snacks and prepare to fall in love.

Calton Hill

One of the city’s seven iconic hills, instantly recognisable thanks to the ‘unfinished’ Athenian Acropolis rising high above the skyline, Calton Hill is one of the oldest public parks in Britain, having been acquired by the Edinburgh Town Council in 1724. With a path right round the edge of the hill, visitors can explore several iconic Scottish buildings, from the aforementioned Acropolis and Nelson’s Monument to the City Observatory, home to the Collective Gallery – whose ambitious programme of contemporary art makes it well worth a visit.

Arguably one of Edinburgh’s most iconic buildings (and we have no shortage of contenders quite frankly), this striking sandstone neo-gothic palace was designed by Sir Robert Rowand Anderson as the world’s first purpose-built portrait gallery. The elaborate decorative scheme extends to the interior, where you’ll discover enchanting friezes and evocative murals before even setting foot in the galleries themselves. From the Photography Gallery and atmospheric Victorian Library, to the many historic portraits of people who have shaped Scotland, this is a remarkable building housing a remarkable collection.

Tucked behind The Canongate on the bustling Royal Mile is Chessel’s Court, a curious collection of mansion houses built by Wright and Merchant Chessel in 1748. Said to have provided the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s novel ‘Jekyll and Hyde’, this hidden gem was later part of an ambitious 19th-century urban renewal project led by the pioneering sociologist and town planner, Sir Patrick Geddes. A botanist by training, Geddes believed that people and their environment evolved together, working with residents to create a network of community gardens. The perfect place for a pitstop.

Only in Edinburgh would the powers that be decide to drain an entire lake and build a public park, slap bang in the city centre. Set in the valley between the New and Old Towns and covering over 37 acres, Princes Street Gardens were created by emptying the Nor Loch, once a medieval defence alongside Edinburgh Castle, before it became a receptacle for all manner of unsavoury waste. Inaugurated in 1820, the gardens continue to serve as gathering place for locals and tourists alike, with the recently restored Ross Fountain providing the backdrop for many a selfie. 

Situated just a short stroll from our shop, the Water of Leith is Edinburgh’s main river, flowing from its source in the Pentland Hills all the way to the Forth of Forth at Leith. At just over 12 miles, the waterside footpath is something of a hidden treasure, offering a very different perspective of Edinburgh’s city centre. Join the walkway at Stockbridge and meander through the historic Dean Village, before arriving at the Modern One gallery, pausing to admire a few of Anthony Gormley’s iconic ‘6 Times’ figures – and perhaps even spotting a heron or the odd otter.

Commissioned in honour of a Skye Terrier famed for his unwavering loyalty to his owner, the bronze statue of Greyfriar’s Bobby marks the entrance to the historic churchyard in Edinburgh’s Old Town. Legend has it that the diminutive dog stayed by his owner’s graveside, despite the best efforts of the graveyard staff – who eventually provided Bobby with food and shelter. The tale was made even more heartwarming by a certain Walt Disney in 1961, and today the monument is a must-see for visitors to our city. And remember, no matter how much you are tempted, please leave Bobby’s nose unrubbed…

If all that history, culture and hillwalking gives you an appetite, then you’d be wise to book a table at Timberyard, a family-run restaurant that is quite possibly the city’s best spot for fine but unfussy dining. The warehouse space is warm and rustic, the ingredients local and seasonal, the wine list approachable, and the service is always on the ball. All of which might go some way to explaining their Michelin star. Look out for the big red door and tell them we sent you.